Collars and Harnesses
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If you have a canine companion, it is likely that you want to get him a collar to give him a sense of belonging. In situations like these, the markets can be full of mind-boggling options. There’s a variety of collars right from Tick preventing collars, post-surgery used Elizabeth collars to Smart Collars, Calming Collars and what not? But the main purpose a collar must serve is to have your dog walk beside you calmly and comfortably making the walk safer and more enjoyable for the both of you. Here are some basic training collars to help you chose the best one for your bud.
These are the most commonly used collars that retain their size and come in two types. First, the Flat collars that provide an easy way to attach ID/licence tags and are available in a variety of colours, materials and styles. They come with release clasps, that make the collar easy to put on and take off, or metal buckles that are sturdier making them fit for strong and energy-filled canines. Second, rolled collars which are more durable and lower the chances of hair loss or parting.
These are designed to prevent the dog’s head from slipping out of the collar while walking on leash. This makes them best suited for dog breeds having heads smaller in proportion compared to their necks such as the Greyhound and so, they are also called the Greyhound collars. These are put on the same way as Everyday flat collars and close in on the neck at a pull of the leash. The added pressure comes from a slip collar which has a mechanism to limit how tight the collar can slip and thus these are also called the Limited Slip collar. These are adjusted in a way such that even at the tightest, the dog doesn’t choke.
Chain Slip Collars
Alternatively called choke chains, these are meant for training purposes only. The corrections are made with a quick leash tug causing it to close in on the dog’s neck. These are not recommended for dogs with short noses, bulging eyes, and tracheas prone to collapse. These must be handled with caution and placed high on the dog’s neck, right behind the ears. A minimum slack should be maintained when pulled but also must not close in too quickly.
When the slip collar of the Martingale is replaced with a chain, it is called the Half-choke collar.
Trainers find these collars effective for stubborn dogs with a high tendency to pull on the leash. When the leash is pulled, the metal prongs placed on the inside the collar, pinch your dog’s neck, sending a message that pulling is not okay and so, they are also called pinch collars. These are used as power steering as not much physical strength is required for the jerk.
Also called head-halters, the collars might remind one of muzzles, but are designed for a very different purpose. These are placed on the snout so when a dog pulls on the leash, the halter will cause the dog’s head to turn, guiding his attention towards you. These are not very common and may wear away at your dog’s face fur over time.
These are the most common alternatives to a collar. They are used for dogs with a propensity for collapsing trachea and are not ideal for pully dogs. There are two main types of harnesses:
Back-clip Harnesses, where the leash is attached at your dog’s back, prevent any tension on the neck and can be useful for short-nosed dogs. They give your dog the leverage to pull and can easily tire him out but don’t provide much control over direction. These can be used to train dogs to pull a cart or a sledge.
Front-clip Harnesses, where the leash is attached at your dog’s chest, redirect your dog back towards you when he begins to pull, just like Head Collars. They help control your dog better without straining his back.
Now, it all comes down to your fury friend’s requirements and temperaments while selecting the perfect leash or collar. Consult with your trainer to gain a perspective of what would suit him the best.